Informations / Notes :
💾 - Il n'est plus possible d'imprimer via cable USB via Cura By Dagoma : utilisez la CARTE SD qui est fournie avec votre imprimante 3D !
💻 - En cas d'erreur sur MAC OS, ouvrez le terminal (cmd+espace, puis tapez "terminal") et entrez la commande suivante :
xattr -cr /Applications/CuraByDagoma.app
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Cura, slicer... we explain everything!
Adjust the size, quality or fill and control the customization of your 3D objects with the Cura by Dagoma software.
In this tutorial, you will discover what this software is all about.
What formats are used?
The STL is to 3D printing what MP3 is to music, or JPEG is to photography.
Most 3D modeling softwares allow the export of files in STL.
However, this format is an empty shell for your printer. It will not know how to use it.
The G-code is a set of instructions for operating your 3D printer.
These instructions represent the set of paths that the print head will follow, layer by layer. It is specific to a type of printer.
It is obtained after transformation of the STL into G-code in a slicing software, or slicer (this is where Cura by Dagoma comes in). Once the file is on an SD card, it is recognized by the 3D printer.
Compatible with all Dagoma 3D printers
We have unified the versions of the open source Cura slicer optimized for Dagoma printers. Now prepare your prints with one single software whatever your machine: Cura by Dagoma.
choose your filament
In Cura, it is necessary to choose the type and color of filament used to make your part. This choice allows you to adjust several parameters in order to print the part in an optimal way (nozzle temperature, quantity of extruded material, shrinkage etc.).
Cura by Dagoma was designed to save you from having to adjust all these settings. All filaments available on Cura and on our website have been tested and approved. We cannot guarantee a good print quality with a filament that is not listed. The best place to start is with the Chromatik filament range.
Choose the filling
Cura allows you to define the filling level of the room. Several choices are possible:
Vase: only the outer layer of your object will be printed (spiral). This ultra-fast mode is suitable for hollow objects with open tops (in short: a vase!).
Hollow (0%): for fast, fill-free printing (this limits printable geometries, this is explained later with the media).
Filled (17%): for simple and effective printing.
Reinforced (33%): for a resistant part.
The more filling there is, the longer the printing time will increase.
Choose the print quality
Our 3D printers work with FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) technology. This means that they deposit hot plastic layer by layer to obtain a part.
The lower the layer height, the higher the quality of the part. However, this parameter has a strong influence on the printing time. It is thus necessary to choose according to the size of the part, the expected level of detail in order to have the best possible compromise.
We recommend starting with 0.2 mm prints.
add support (or not)
Gravity prevents us from printing above the vacuum. Therefore, each printing layer must be supported by the layer below (at least 50% overlapped). The support therefore supports the parts of the workpiece that are above the vacuum.
The YHT on the right shows the different possibilities.
Y: It is possible to print above the vacuum as long as the angle of the surface does not exceed 45°.
H: It is possible to print between two turns (we call this a "bridge"). From a certain length, the bridge won't hold, it will need support.
T: Without support it is impossible to print an overhang like the branches of the T.
Difference with and without support
The image on the right illustrates the result obtained when an object should have been printed with support. The substrate thus guarantees the success of a complex print.
All the ingenuity of a part well designed for 3D printing lies in the orientation of the geometries avoiding the use of the support as much as possible.
The dark side of the support
There are not only advantages in the use of the support. It's a waste of material since it is not part of the final part. It is also an additional manual operation to remove it. It leaves a coarse surface that sometimes needs to be scraped and sanded to get a clean result.
warping of the parts ("warping")
This is unfortunately an imponderable in 3D printing. Depending on the geometries, the quality of the first layer or the quality of the adhesion surfaces, the part can come off. A partial peeling off as in the picture (also called "warping") is annoying because it deforms the part. A complete peeling off results in a total printing failure and can damage the printer.
The checkbox "Improvement of the adhesion surface" allows to limit this phenomenon. This option adds a thin layer all around the part and stabilizes it on the surface. It will have to be removed at the end of printing.
L'AMÉLIORATION DE LA SURFACE D'ADHÉSION
Ajouter une jupe : la tête d'impression réalise un cercle appelé "jupe" autour de la zone d'impression, afin d'extruder entièrement le filament précédent pour une couleur optimale !
Ajouter une bordure : la tête imprime une légère couche de filament qui relie l'objet 3D au plateau, afin de maximiser l'adhérence.
Ajouter un radeau : la pièce est rattachée au plateau, grâce à un radeau (une base plate épaisse), ce qui permet de limiter fortement les risques de warping.
L'OPTION "PLATEAU MAGNÉTIQUE FLEX"
Cette option permet à l'imprimante d'être encore plus précise lors de son palpage dans le cas où un plateau flex a été installé sur la machine.
Cura by Dagoma
Software compatible with Mac, Windows, Linux